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Car noises explained: what that sound means and what to do
Most car noises point to one system: grinding or squealing when braking is the brakes, clicking when turning is usually a CV axle, a clunk over bumps is suspension, and humming that rises with speed is often a wheel bearing or tires. Pick when your car makes the noise below for the likely cause, how urgent it is and what to do, from the technicians at Prestige Auto Repairs & Tires in Fort Lauderdale and Oakland Park.
High-pitched squeal when brakingWhen braking · “eeee” Soon
Likely cause. Most often the small metal wear indicator on the brake pad touching the rotor, which means the pads are near the end. Glazed pads or missing anti-squeal shims make the same sound.
What to do. Book a brake inspection soon. Caught at the squeal stage, it is usually pads and possibly rotors, not calipers. See brake repair.
Grinding or scraping when brakingWhen braking · “grrr” Stop
Likely cause. The pad friction material is gone and metal is grinding on the rotor, or a stone is trapped behind the dust shield.
What to do. Keep driving to a minimum: stopping distance gets longer and the rotor is being cut. Call us and we will tell you whether to drive in or arrange to get the car to the shop. See brake repair.
Light squeak on the first stops of the dayWhen braking · “squeak” Watch
Likely cause. A thin layer of surface rust forms on rotors overnight, especially in South Florida humidity or after rain, and wipes off in the first few stops.
What to do. Nothing, if it goes away after a few stops. If it stays all day, have the pads checked. See brake repair.
Clicking or popping when turningWhen turning · “click-click” Soon
Likely cause. A worn outer CV joint on a front-drive or all-wheel-drive car, usually after its rubber boot tears and the grease leaks out. Loudest in tight, slow turns like parking lots.
What to do. Have the axle checked soon. A failing CV joint gets louder and can eventually separate. See CV axle repair.
Whining when you turn the steering wheelWhen turning · “wheee” Soon
Likely cause. On cars with hydraulic power steering: low fluid, a leak or a tired pump. Electric power steering does not whine this way, so it is usually an older or larger vehicle.
What to do. Check for a leak under the front of the car and have the steering system inspected before the pump fails. See steering repair.
Creaking or groaning at low speedWhen turning · “creeak” Soon
Likely cause. Dry or worn ball joints, strut mounts or control-arm bushings. Heat and age dry out rubber bushings faster here than in milder climates.
What to do. Book a suspension inspection. Worn ball joints affect steering and tire wear. See suspension repair.
Clunk or knock over bumpsOver bumps · “clunk” Soon
Likely cause. Worn sway-bar links, strut mounts, control-arm bushings or a loose exhaust part. On European SUVs, worn air-suspension components are common.
What to do. Have it checked soon; we road test and inspect every joint on a lift to find which part is moving. See suspension repair.
Hissing or a compressor running often (air suspension)Over bumps · “hsss” Soon
Likely cause. A leaking air spring or line on air suspension (Range Rover, Mercedes AIRMATIC, Audi, Tesla and others) makes the compressor work overtime, often with one corner sitting low.
What to do. Book soon: a compressor that runs constantly will overheat and fail, turning one repair into two. See air suspension repair.
Humming or growling that rises with speedAt speed · “hmmmm” Soon
Likely cause. A worn wheel bearing (the sound often changes when you steer left or right) or cupped, unevenly worn tires.
What to do. Have the bearings and tires checked soon. A failing bearing gets hot and can affect the ABS sensor. See wheel bearing replacement.
Whine that rises as you accelerateAt speed · “weee-ooo” Soon
Likely cause. A transmission or differential that is low on fluid or wearing, or a bearing in the alternator. Pay attention to whether it follows engine speed or road speed.
What to do. Book a diagnosis; checking fluid early is far cheaper than a gearbox repair later. See transmission repair.
Rattle from underneath the carAt speed · “rattle” Watch
Likely cause. Usually a loose heat shield or a broken exhaust hanger, worst at certain engine speeds or over rough roads.
What to do. Not urgent, but have it looked at: a loose shield can fall off, and a cracked exhaust can leak fumes. See exhaust repair.
Ticking or tapping from the engineEngine & starting · “tik-tik” Soon
Likely cause. Low oil, a noisy lifter or an exhaust manifold leak. Note that direct-injection engines have a normal light ticking from the injectors.
What to do. Check the oil level first. If it is full and the tick is new or getting louder, book a check. See engine repair.
Deep knocking from inside the engineEngine & starting · “knock” Stop
Likely cause. A deep, rhythmic knock that gets faster with engine speed can mean worn rod bearings from oil starvation. A lighter ping under load is usually fuel or ignition related.
What to do. If it is a deep knock, stop driving: the engine can fail completely. Call us and we arrange to get the car to the shop. See engine repair.
Squeal at startup or when the A/C turns onEngine & starting · “skreee” Soon
Likely cause. A worn or glazed serpentine belt, or a weak belt tensioner. The A/C compressor adds load, which makes a slipping belt squeal.
What to do. Replace the belt and check the tensioner soon: if the belt breaks you lose charging, and on many cars cooling too. See scheduled maintenance.
Rapid clicking when you turn the key, no startEngine & starting · “click-click-click” Soon
Likely cause. Almost always a battery too weak to turn the starter, or a corroded battery cable. A single loud click points more to the starter itself.
What to do. A jump start usually gets you going; then have the battery and charging system tested before it happens again. See battery replacement.
Hissing under the hoodEngine & starting · “tsss” Soon
Likely cause. A vacuum leak (often with a rough idle and a check engine light) or a coolant leak hitting hot parts, usually with a sweet smell or steam.
What to do. Watch the temperature gauge. If it climbs or you see steam, pull over and switch off, then call us. See coolant leak repair.
A warning light on the dash too? Check our dashboard warning lights guide. Not sure what you are hearing? Record a short video with sound and send it with the estimate form; a service advisor will call you.
Three things that help us find a noise fast
Noises come and go, so the details you notice matter as much as the sound itself.
- When does it happen?Braking, turning, over bumps, at a certain speed, cold or warm, with the A/C on.
- Where does it come from?Front or rear, left or right, under the hood or underneath.
- Does it follow road speed or engine speed?A sound that changes when you shift gears is engine or transmission; one that only follows how fast you are moving is wheels, tires or brakes.
Road test, lift inspection, photos
At both shops we road test the car under the conditions you describe, inspect it on a lift, and send photos of the worn part with a written estimate before any work. Repairs carry our 2-year / 24,000-mile warranty. Oakland Park, at 250 NE 44th St, is open 7 days; Fort Lauderdale, at 930 NE 4th Ave, Monday to Saturday; both 8 AM – 7 PM.
